top of page
Writer's pictureLisa Bea Smith

Amid the rush of the Christmas Season.... .....May we pause to remember and honor the Reason Wishing you every blessing of Christmas!


For God so loved the world that He gave His only begotten Son John 3:16

4 views0 comments
Writer's pictureLisa Bea Smith

Carbon monoxide gas is known as the ‘Silent Killer’ and the ‘Great Imitator’. Carbon monoxide gas (CO) cannot be seen, tasted, or smelled and is not safe to breathe.


Do you have any gas appliances in your home (heaters, stoves, hot water heater, dryer) or a fireplace with a chimney? These appliances may not be vented correctly causing CO gas to infiltrate your home. Fireplaces can also cause negative pressure increasing the likelihood of back-drafting at gas-fired appliances elsewhere in the building. Do you have an attached enclosed garage? Starting the car (even with the garage door open) and “warming it up” in the garage can even allow CO gas into the home. With today’s emphasis on energy efficiencies, the tighter homes will allow buildup of these gases more quickly.


Low-level exposure to carbon monoxide can cause chronic health conditions from cardiovascular disease to an illness similar to Parkinson’s. Symptoms of carbon monoxide exposure include headaches, upset stomach, vomiting, dizziness, weakness, or confusion. Severe cases can cause brain damage, blindness, deafness, heart problems, or death. Exposure to CO can be a major threat to you and your family’s health.


A home with any gas appliances, a fireplace, or an enclosed attached garage should have CO detectors installed.

- within 10 feet of each bedroom door and near all sleeping areas, where it can wake sleepers. - on every floor of your home

- near or over any attached garage.

- near, but not directly above, combustion appliances, such as furnaces, water heaters, and fireplaces, and in the garage

How to prevent CO poisoning?

- Install carbon monoxide detectors with labels showing that they meet the requirements of the new UL standard 2034 or Comprehensive Safety Analysis 6.19 safety standards.

- Make sure appliances are installed and operated according to the manufacturer's instructions and local building codes.

- Check chimneys and flues for blockages, corrosion, partial and complete disconnections, and loose connections.

- Never service fuel-burning appliances without the proper knowledge, skill, and tools. Always refer to the owner's manual when performing minor adjustments and when servicing fuel-burning equipment.

- Never operate a portable generator or any other gasoline engine-powered tool either in or near an enclosed space, such as a garage, house or other building. Even with open doors and windows, these spaces can trap CO and allow it to quickly build to lethal levels.

- Never use portable fuel-burning camping equipment inside a home, garage, vehicle, or tent unless it is specifically designed for use in an enclosed space and provides instructions for safe use in an enclosed area.

- Never burn charcoal inside a home, garage, vehicle or tent.

- Never leave a car running in an attached garage, even with the garage door open.

- Never use gas appliances, such as ranges, ovens or clothes dryers to heat your home.

- Never operate un-vented fuel-burning appliances in any room where people are sleeping.

- Do not place generators in the garage or close to the home. The owner's manual should explain how far the generator should be from the home.

- Clean the chimney regularly. Hire a chimney sweep annually.

- Check vents. Regularly inspect your home's external vents to ensure they are not obscured by debris.


Busy Bea Home Inspection LLC includes a visual inspection of the venting of the gas appliances and the chimney, as well as recommendations for CO detectors and gas leak detectors, where necessary. Call Busy Bea Home Inspection, LLC at 318-419-3018 or email ChooseBusyBea@gmail.com. Visit the Busy Bea facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/BusyBeaHomeInspection .






4 views0 comments

Chilly weather is here and a warm fireplace will feel good! However, your fireplace should be inspected and cleaned each year before using it. Chimney sweeps are experienced and typically do a good job for a modest price, but if you as a homeowner want to inspect and clean your fireplace yourself, it is not a difficult job, just a dirty one! A professional chimney sweep should be called if there is significant soot and creosote build-up noted during your inspection of the fireplace. (Wearing a hat and goggles are a good idea. A respirator or high quality dust mask is also recommended.) If you choose to hire a chimney sweep, look for someone that is certified and insured and will provide an upfront cost estimate.


1. First, check the firebox for cracks and loose joints. Check for damage (spalling and cracking) in the mortar and bricks if it is a masonry fireplace. (Refractory cement can be used for minor repairs.)

2. The damper should be opened and closed to insure that it moves freely and closes securely. The metal should not have cracks or damaged areas.

3. Next, the flue should be inspected using a high-powered light. A metal flue liner should have its joints aligned and be clean. If the flue liner is tile or masonry, there should not be any cracks. Look for any obstructions such as birds’ or squirrels’ nests, leaves, and debris and clean, as necessary. Look for soot and creosote build-up next. A good way to determine if your chimney needs cleaning is to run the point of your fireplace poker along the inside of the chimney liner. If there is 1/8” or more of buildup (the thickness of a nickel), the flue needs cleaning. If the soot has a matte black finish and the scratch is no more than a nickel thickness, it’s a DIY job. However, if the buildup is deeper or has a shiny or tarlike appearance, there may be heavy creosote buildup. In this case, a professional chimney sweep is recommended.


Creosote build-up in a flue may catch fire. A small hot spot of creosote can smolder for hours after the fire in the fireplace has gone out. If the flue fails in a fire, the wood framing and insulation in the house can ignite. Creosote forms as a result of gases that have not fully combusted, and it condenses on the inside of the chimney and remains until removed. Burning green or unseasoned allows creosote build-up to occur faster. Creosote is formed in the upper parts of the chimney when the warm vapors contact the cold outside air. Creosote is a black or brown residue that clings to the inner surfaces of the flue liner. Creosote can be dry or sticky and hard and glassy or flaky. Therefore, it is critical that all creosote, as well as soot, is removed every time the fireplace is cleaned. Most chimney fires start in the smoke chamber/smoke shelf area, so it’s the most important area to clean


Chimney Fires are DEVASTATING!


To clean the chimney yourself, a good quality chimney-cleaning brush is needed. These large brushes have plastic or stiff wire bristles and are attached to an extendable pole. Dropcloths should be laid around the hearth area and a heavy duty shop vacuum is needed to clean up the debris loosened. First, the chimney opening should be brushed thoroughly, followed by extending the pole section by section and cleaning each area of the flue thoroughly. Brush the firebox thoroughly and finish by vacuuming the damper area, smoke, shelf, and firebox.

If mostly green (wet) logs are burned, the chimney should be cleaned or inspected every 50 burns. Green wood doesn’t burn cleanly and sends a lot of unburned particles (smoke) up the chimney, where they build up as creosote and soot. Dry hardwood, such as oak, burns hotter and cleaner. With dry hardwood, the chimney should be cleaned or inspected every 70 burns.

bottom of page